The Cassock is long garment, from a tightly buttoned collar down to the ankles, with narrow sleeves. The cassock appears in two styles. The first style (Russian) tightens at the waist, cutting the cassock from top to bottom, with the lower section broadening in the shape of a bell. The lower left flap drops deeply underneath the right outer flap. The right outer flap slants to the left side and is buttoned at the waist and neck. The second style, or Old Believer style narrows in the waist or, is straight-lined; divided in the center from the neck to the chest (see picture below), or all the way down, with a row of buttons down to the ankles (common 33). Such a style was used by the clergy of the ancient Russian Old Believers and the aristocracy. The cassock is the under garment. For monastics the cassock must be black. The color of the cassock used by the white (married) clergy can be black, dark-blue, brown, gray or white; the material used can be either cloth, wool, satin, linen or other fabrics.